Article: Walking on a Loose Lead
A 3-Step Program that WILL work!
Have you stopped walking your dog because he pulls on the lead? Or dread the walk because of this? Regular walks are very important for dogs and are really good for humans too! Here is an easy 3-step program that will get you back to enjoying your walking time with your best buddy.
Loose lead walking is not the same as obedience heeling. His head/body can be a bit in front of your leg or a bit behind, we are not referring to a perfect heel position, but the leash must always be loose. A formal heel will also require the dog to take the sit position whenever you stop. You can decide if you want to add the automatic sit or not. You can in fact set your own limit of how far the dog can go in front or behind you. Remember though, that whatever you want as a final product, is what you should start teaching from the very beginning. If you accept him to go ahead of you but don’t really want that, start to enforce what you want right away and be consistent. It’s good to actually teach both the formal heel and the loose leash walking. It’s also a very good idea to teach your dog to “wait” each time you cross a road. Giving them some time to explore on the walk is also very important.
Giving them a cue such as "go sniff" will give them permission to pull you around and check out their environment. This mental stimulation is very important for dogs. Try not to walk the same routine often. Take your dogs to different areas so they can enjoy new sights and smells. Anywhere at all; gas stations, stores, new streets, parks etc... the more smelly it is, the more stimulating to your dog it will be. Combining exercise with mental stimulation is the very best for the dogs and will reduce their stress level and help with preventing or eliminating any behaviour problems. Remember, mental stimulation is the most important thing you can do for your dogs quality or life. This is so much better for your dogs then getting them to run and chase balls or frisbees.
So WHY do dogs pull on their walks anyway?
1. Because we follow and it gets them where they want to go (learned behavior). It is self-rewarding and it works! In essence we have actually TAUGHT them that they need to pull to get anywhere because we follow them.
2. Because the outside environment is so interesting to them. It has an overwhelming amount of smells and sights. It can also be stressful too, depending on the dog and the situation. Keep your dog under threshold at all times. The method laid out here will give you some tools to achieve that. For more information on thresholds, contact me.
3. And because of the law of resistance, when you pull, there is equal or greater resistance. So pulling back on the leash does not work, it in fact makes it worse.
Before we take it to the streets: First you have to teach your dog that a sound you make means to pay attention to you when you are outside. A clucking or smacking noise similar to what you might do to speed up a horse. It must be a sound that you do not use for anything else. A sharp quick sound is best. It must be fast and always the same.
Do this training by standing completely still and making the sound and giving a food treat immediately after. You have to be fast and your timing prefect. Deliver the treat directly to the dogs mouth so he doesn't have to jump and you are not luring him around. We should bend our knees and not reach over the dog when doing this. Your hand should be going directly and immediately to the dogs mouth. Practice this a few times yourself before you try it on your dog. Start this training when your dog is hungry. Before a meal, and use his kibble for the training or very small pieces (no bigger than you baby finger nail) of healthy treats. It’s wonderful if our dogs can work for their meals. Some dogs work for every single kibble they get, and this is a well-trained dog. Just think, he has had over 100 positive reinforcements a day for doing the correct behavior.
Step 1. Foundation. Start the program by not walking your dog for 3-5 days in an area with a lot of distractions & busy places. Instead take him out in your yard, driveway or drive him to a remote, empty parking lot. Teach him to pay attention to you while OUTSIDE by making the noise and delivery treat!
a.) Start by just a few steps and no more. When he first starts to get a bit too far away from you, before the leash is tight, make the noise and turn direction and then give him a treat. Repeat many times.
b.) Try taking a couple of steps backwards and if he follows and looks at you - treat. The backwards walking is especially good for dogs who are easily distracted.
c.) Once he is doing this really well and consistently- take a few more steps forward and as long as the leash is loose continue but as soon as it is almost tight, make the noise, turn around and treat him when he follows. Ten minute sessions twice a day is perfect. Don't practice more than this in the beginning.
Step 2. Taking it to the streets! He must never be allowed to pull again while on the walks.
a.) No matter what the distractions is, other dogs, skateboards etc, you must get his attention before the leash is tight by making the noise and treating him. He will make a few mistakes and that is ok, none of us is perfect and we should not strive for perfection.
b.) Teach him all the commands he knows already inside, "outside" sit, down, paw, wait, etc....when this is all very good he is ready to start the walks. Don't start the walks until you have faithfully done all this training, it’s an important step. He needs to listen and pay attention to you while outside.
Use your smacking noise and treats, not the leash to get him back. It’s a hard habit to break sometimes, but you will get there so much faster with using this method consistently. Having a large pocket you can access the treats from quickly will help. A waist treat bag is also very good. Don't have your treats in a bag you have to fiddle with to get out; that noise is also distracting. You should always deliver the treats directly to their mouths. They should not have to reach for the treat at all. Good treat delivery, good timing and consistency, goes a long way in training. Always keep things fun and positive for your dog. If your not having fun, either is he.
Step 3. Teach your dog to stop and sniff things.
a.) Give a command such as "go play or go sniff". He is then allowed to pull you around and sniff things for the allotted time. .
b.) This will remove YOU as the barrier to his fun because he earned his reward by a “sit” or other cue you just gave him.
c.) The dog soon learns this and knows the difference between walking on a loose lead or heeling and being "allowed" to “go sniff”.
This training takes time and patience. Don’t get frustrated with your dog. Go slower and take a step backward if he is not progressing. Happy trails!
Have you stopped walking your dog because he pulls on the lead? Or dread the walk because of this? Regular walks are very important for dogs and are really good for humans too! Here is an easy 3-step program that will get you back to enjoying your walking time with your best buddy.
Loose lead walking is not the same as obedience heeling. His head/body can be a bit in front of your leg or a bit behind, we are not referring to a perfect heel position, but the leash must always be loose. A formal heel will also require the dog to take the sit position whenever you stop. You can decide if you want to add the automatic sit or not. You can in fact set your own limit of how far the dog can go in front or behind you. Remember though, that whatever you want as a final product, is what you should start teaching from the very beginning. If you accept him to go ahead of you but don’t really want that, start to enforce what you want right away and be consistent. It’s good to actually teach both the formal heel and the loose leash walking. It’s also a very good idea to teach your dog to “wait” each time you cross a road. Giving them some time to explore on the walk is also very important.
Giving them a cue such as "go sniff" will give them permission to pull you around and check out their environment. This mental stimulation is very important for dogs. Try not to walk the same routine often. Take your dogs to different areas so they can enjoy new sights and smells. Anywhere at all; gas stations, stores, new streets, parks etc... the more smelly it is, the more stimulating to your dog it will be. Combining exercise with mental stimulation is the very best for the dogs and will reduce their stress level and help with preventing or eliminating any behaviour problems. Remember, mental stimulation is the most important thing you can do for your dogs quality or life. This is so much better for your dogs then getting them to run and chase balls or frisbees.
So WHY do dogs pull on their walks anyway?
1. Because we follow and it gets them where they want to go (learned behavior). It is self-rewarding and it works! In essence we have actually TAUGHT them that they need to pull to get anywhere because we follow them.
2. Because the outside environment is so interesting to them. It has an overwhelming amount of smells and sights. It can also be stressful too, depending on the dog and the situation. Keep your dog under threshold at all times. The method laid out here will give you some tools to achieve that. For more information on thresholds, contact me.
3. And because of the law of resistance, when you pull, there is equal or greater resistance. So pulling back on the leash does not work, it in fact makes it worse.
Before we take it to the streets: First you have to teach your dog that a sound you make means to pay attention to you when you are outside. A clucking or smacking noise similar to what you might do to speed up a horse. It must be a sound that you do not use for anything else. A sharp quick sound is best. It must be fast and always the same.
Do this training by standing completely still and making the sound and giving a food treat immediately after. You have to be fast and your timing prefect. Deliver the treat directly to the dogs mouth so he doesn't have to jump and you are not luring him around. We should bend our knees and not reach over the dog when doing this. Your hand should be going directly and immediately to the dogs mouth. Practice this a few times yourself before you try it on your dog. Start this training when your dog is hungry. Before a meal, and use his kibble for the training or very small pieces (no bigger than you baby finger nail) of healthy treats. It’s wonderful if our dogs can work for their meals. Some dogs work for every single kibble they get, and this is a well-trained dog. Just think, he has had over 100 positive reinforcements a day for doing the correct behavior.
Step 1. Foundation. Start the program by not walking your dog for 3-5 days in an area with a lot of distractions & busy places. Instead take him out in your yard, driveway or drive him to a remote, empty parking lot. Teach him to pay attention to you while OUTSIDE by making the noise and delivery treat!
a.) Start by just a few steps and no more. When he first starts to get a bit too far away from you, before the leash is tight, make the noise and turn direction and then give him a treat. Repeat many times.
b.) Try taking a couple of steps backwards and if he follows and looks at you - treat. The backwards walking is especially good for dogs who are easily distracted.
c.) Once he is doing this really well and consistently- take a few more steps forward and as long as the leash is loose continue but as soon as it is almost tight, make the noise, turn around and treat him when he follows. Ten minute sessions twice a day is perfect. Don't practice more than this in the beginning.
Step 2. Taking it to the streets! He must never be allowed to pull again while on the walks.
a.) No matter what the distractions is, other dogs, skateboards etc, you must get his attention before the leash is tight by making the noise and treating him. He will make a few mistakes and that is ok, none of us is perfect and we should not strive for perfection.
b.) Teach him all the commands he knows already inside, "outside" sit, down, paw, wait, etc....when this is all very good he is ready to start the walks. Don't start the walks until you have faithfully done all this training, it’s an important step. He needs to listen and pay attention to you while outside.
Use your smacking noise and treats, not the leash to get him back. It’s a hard habit to break sometimes, but you will get there so much faster with using this method consistently. Having a large pocket you can access the treats from quickly will help. A waist treat bag is also very good. Don't have your treats in a bag you have to fiddle with to get out; that noise is also distracting. You should always deliver the treats directly to their mouths. They should not have to reach for the treat at all. Good treat delivery, good timing and consistency, goes a long way in training. Always keep things fun and positive for your dog. If your not having fun, either is he.
Step 3. Teach your dog to stop and sniff things.
a.) Give a command such as "go play or go sniff". He is then allowed to pull you around and sniff things for the allotted time. .
b.) This will remove YOU as the barrier to his fun because he earned his reward by a “sit” or other cue you just gave him.
c.) The dog soon learns this and knows the difference between walking on a loose lead or heeling and being "allowed" to “go sniff”.
This training takes time and patience. Don’t get frustrated with your dog. Go slower and take a step backward if he is not progressing. Happy trails!
